Introduction
Saigons is a kaleidoscopic city where you are woken up in the morning by motorbike horns and roosters. I spent three years in Vietnam, and every morning, getting on the roads was like entering a video game.
Reminicent of my childhood playing Mario Cart, I drove to work every morning through the Saigon streets like I was Luigi. Instead of supercharging my speed with a floating mushroom in the middle of the road, I would pick up a cafe sua da (Vietnamese coffee) and burn rubber on my Honda Cub.
With roughly 9 million motorbikes on the street, this city takes multiplayer to a new level.
Here is a snapshot of Saigons streets through the lens of my handlebars.
The Pulse of Saigon’s Streets
These city roads resemble the human body’s intricate vascular system, ever-winding road systems that appear unorganised but play an integral role in the city’s makeup.
With motorbikes, markets, and street vendors being the city’s lifeblood, I will lift the lid and give you a glimpse of these three components.
Dense Motorbike Traffic
Traffic is just as inevitable as the rising sun daily. You know it’s there, so you might as well learn how to bask in it.
The qualities that one adopts to get to the “expert level” are being able to manoeuvre through tight spaces and read traffic flow patterns. Get these two down, and you will drive like a true local in no time.
One thing you’ll notice in Saigon is the absence of road rage. In all my years, I have never seen any turmoil on the streets.
Daily, you would see motorbikes bumping into other motorbikes without any hostility or repercussions.
A slight nod to the person you bumped into is the equivalent of pulling to the side of the road and coughing up your insurance details.
Speaks volumes about the locals.
Culinary Quests: Street Food Vendors
With Saigon being such a dense urban area, it’s only fair to say there are many mouths to feed. (Nine million, to be exact). A by-product of this is a mass amount of street vendors selling top-tier Vietnamese food below bargain prices.
From the morning smell of fresh Banh Mi bread to the cracking sound of pork being BBQ’d for the infamous Com Tam, Saigons streets are like one big cafeteria open for business.
With time, you start to understand where and how to locate your favourite vendors; through trial & error + word of mouth, you eventually become a regular at some food stalls.
Generally, the ladies of the city are the masterminds behind these meals on wheels, always showing up and feeding the people morning, noon, and night.
These ‘Chi Oi’s’ (older ladies in Vietnamese) had become familiar with the sound of my motorbike echoing down the street, knowing precisely what dish to prepare next and how much sauce to add to it.
Here is one of the ladies I met every morning in Saigons District 1.
Finding Comfort in the Chaos
In other words, keep calm and don’t freak out! These streets are undoubtedly dangerous, but it becomes second nature if you understand the nuances.
Being a catalogue of different aspects that need attention, I feel the most important is traffic flow dynamics.
Using your horn to navigate through traffic like a dolphin uses its sonar is the way to do this. In some cultures, this is revered as rude or aggressive; in Vietnam, it acts as a tool.
Once you understand that this is like a breathing organism that changes its form with the weather and the time of day, you can start to get in line with the locals and ride in peace.
Horns and Etiquette: The Unspoken Language of Saigon’s Streets
Driving in Saigon without a horn is like wearing two eye patches; it’s not something I recommend.
The sound of the beep has long been an aural asset in day-to-day navigation.
As mentioned before, this is not a sound of “get out of my way” but more like “I’m behind you, so take that into consideration”.
It can also be used as a signal for intent; for example, sometimes, one will use continuous honking in traffic jams, not out of frustration but to encourage movement and signal one’s intention to find a way through the congestion.
Use it or lose it!
My Ride: The Infamous Honda Cub: A “Cultural Icon”
The Honda Cub, often featured in Vietnamese songs and movies, has made its way into the hearts and driveways of many families.
Post-war, owning a Honda Cub represented economic stability and freedom for many locals as the economy grew and modernised.
It’s one of the most popular bikes in the city, one that caught my eye the moment I landed; I had to have one.
Mine was born in 1981 and had made its way through many different versions of Saigon; in light of this, I decided to give it a facelift, which was more than entertaining for the locals.
This allowed me to connect to the city I once called home. Not only did I learn how to ride like a local, but I also learned how to transport goods like a true local.
The Art of Crossing The Street: Sidestepping Scooters in Vietnam
We have all heard about the daily struggles of crossing the street in Vietnam. This is real, and there is a clear route to the other side.
Here are my three tips on how to get over in one piece:
1: Confidence Is King: Rule with the Hand
When standing on the side of the street, typically, the amount of traffic comes in waves, primarily due to the function of traffic lights from down the road; once the amount of bikes slights eases up or slows down, pick a point across the street and dart straight for it.
Always keep one hand in the air so bikes can know your location.
This acts like a beacon; use it or lose it.
2: Tempo, Not timing: Keep the pace; keep your face
Looking for the exact moment to walk will never come; while there are good windows to cross, there is never the right moment.
It’s all about keeping the same pace; keep it steady and constant, and the bike around you will be able to judge your location; they are the ones that make it work, not you. This paired with the hand, and you’re nearly across.
3: The Street Charmer: Using gestures
Making eye contact with the motorists is a good way to say, “I am here, and I’m going to cross.”
This non-verbal communication means, “Don’t run me over”.
A little wink and a nod will go a long way. Don’t be shy.
Monsoon Mania: Steering Through Nature’s Car Wash Like A Local
Every year, from May to November, the city dresses up in florescent plastic bags, not because of a cultural tradition but to keep you from getting soaked to the bone.
Ponchoes are just as crucial as the petrol in your motorbike.
In the Western world, if it rains, we shelter until it stops, but in Vietnam, you put on your plastic bag (poncho) and get going.
Because it rains so heavily and for such a long time, you can’t just shelter; you must get going.
It is so warm you are not afraid of getting a cold.
Being drenched with warm water on the way to work feels somewhat lovely. I would advise bringing a spare bag and putting flip-flops in it so your shoes won’t be wet for the day.
There are times when water will be at ankle level; when this happens, keep revving that engine and pray to your God if you have one that, the engine won’t die!
Empty Tank, Full Heart’s: Saigons Roadside Samaritans
Common roadside ’emergencies’: No petrol, flat tire. This, for me, was quite common. Why? Because my old pony had no fuel gauge, I had to do it by eye.
The issue was I couldn’t see into my take, so you can see where my problem was.
But do not worry. If you run out of petrol, you are in for a ride- more like a push.
If you are down and out of the good stuff within a matter of minutes, a good samaritan will pull up and signal that he is willing to push your bike while driving.
This is done by the samaritan placing his foot somewhere on the back of your bike whilst accelerating his, also known as “a pushy”.
I have been pushed around that city more times than I’m willing to admit, but I will say that the Vietnamese always showed up wearing a smile and sometimes even a plastic bag, depending on the weather.
Pimp My Ride: Percys Paints
The beauty of buying a bike in Vietnam is that there is minimal red tape surrounding how your motorbike looks, thus giving you the freedom to do what you want.
So buying a bike for cheap, putting in an engine that is way too big for it and painting as wild as you like is entirely your choice.
A good friend of mine that went by the name of ‘Percy’ had been pimping out the ex-pats bikes while I was there. His work was just as colourful and rich as his personality.
One day, we took a trip to the motorbike district in the bowels of Saigon to fetch paint for my bike; Percy, being Percy, already knew all the locals who worked in this market from a previous visit, making it easy to avail of the local prices.
On this day, we returned to his bike shed and created a masterpiece (he did not me), which he had painted onto the side of my bike but will forever stay in my heart, just like him.
Check this out:
Final Thoughts
The streets of Saigon are a playground occupied by some of the nicest people to grace this planet, but instead of pushing about toy cars, you will find people wearing plastic bags (ponchos) pushing around petrol-less people like me!
Saigon City offers more than just a metropolitan city in the sun; it provides an opportunity to ride like a local, to eat like they do, and to help just like they do.
So next time you see an Anh oi (male Vietnamese man) lacking in the petrol department, you know what to do.
